Sunday, August 28, 2011

A Masterchef favourite - Colin Fassnidge's Four in Hand

At first glance, upon arriving at the Four in Hand gastro pub, it looks just like that...a pub and a very unassuming one. Upon my departure from the restaurant I can understand why Colin is a masterchef favourite and has featured on the show on so many occasions. His food is inventive yet unpretentious, clever and most importantly delicious. Definitely one of the best gastro pubs I have ever eaten at. The food was excellent value and the portion were generous but not overwhelming. One of the lasting memories that I left the gastro pub with was the colcannon with bacon (a traditional supercharged Irish mash potato)

We started with the Kingfish Cerviche with Ruby Red Grapefruit, Ginger Beer Sorbet and Baby Coriander.The execution was spot on, with perfectly balanced flavours and the surprising subtlety of the ginger beer sorbet...sublime.

The confit du canard with duck salad was an interesting combination; something I would not have thought not of. A wonderfully colourful dish but missing just a spark; something that would have lifted the dish.

First main: Braised Beef Cheek Veal Tongue, Poached Bone Marrow and ‘Steak and Kidney’ was rich and delicious; not for the faint hearted. The flavours were robust and as you would expect from a dish like this, a dish that has  Colin's Irish upbringing flowing through it. The tongue had been cured for days and was melt in your mouth soft...the little onion rings was a cool touch. Vegetarians would turn in disgust at this dish but carnivores would carve this up.

Second main: Berkshire Pork Fillet with 'Nose to Tail' Pudding and Pancetta Jus...The highlight of the dish was the black pudding, such intensity of flavours but not overpowering...the pork loins were pink and perfectly cooked and just the right balance of flavours; a top dish.

16 hour cooked Apple Terrine with Anglaise, Prune and Sherry Ice-cream. A great end to the meal with a dessert that was not overly sweet and the Calvodos cut through the richness of the dessert and the meal.

It is a little out of the way and away from the city but Four in Hand is definitely worth the trip out to the quiet streets of Paddington. You will experience food that's a little left field, honest and unpretentious.

Taste: 8/10
Service: 7/10
Ambiance: 6/10
Value: 8/10

How was your experience at the Four in Hand?

Four in Hand on Urbanspoon

1 comment:

Nic said...

I love this place! Been there twice and couldn't fault it either time. It's my kind of food :)

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